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First world intangible cultural heritage fashion brand incubated by Youth + platform: Oriental Ocean



Oriental Ocean(海絢東方)是由YOUTH+世界(灣區)青年實踐平台下的品牌實驗室所孵化的首個世界非遺時尚品牌。Oriental Ocean is the first world intangible cultural heritage fashion brand incubated by the brand laboratory under the platform of Youth + World (Bay Area) Youth Practice.


2021年4月13日下午2点,Oriental Ocean 海绚东方世界非遗推广平台通过与大湾区青年设计师合作,将3000年非遗黎锦以时代新裁之名,重新搬上了中国最有原创代表精神的深圳时装周舞台。At 2 pm on April 13, 2021, Oriental Ocean’s Oriental World Intangible Heritage Promotion Platform, through cooperation with young designers from the Greater Bay Area, brought the 3000-year-old intangible cultural heritage Li Jin back to China’s most exclusive stage of the Shenzhen Fashion Week where originality represents the spirit.




传统老料黎锦一套难求,非遗:想说爱你不容易

Traditional Li textile material is hard to find

Intangible Cultural Heritage: Saying that I love you is not easy


在中国(世界)的非遗圈都十分罕见的“絣染”的技艺(史书亦称“缬染”,又称结染、扎染)。此种技艺在我国其它民族的印染技术中也出现过,通常是先织布后絣染,而黎族的絣染技艺是先絣染后织布。In (world) intangible cultural heritage circles of China, the art of "handspun indigo dyeing" is very rare (also known as "valerian dyeing", also known as Warp Ikat dyeing and tie dyeing in historical books). This kind of technique has also appeared in the printing and dyeing techniques of other ethnic groups in our country, usually weaving fabrics first and then dying those fabrics, while the Li ethnic people's dyeing technique is to weave fabrics after dying the yarns.

简要解释起来是:黎族絣染是把理好的纺线做经,紧缚在絣染架上,然后用青色或棕色的棉线在经线上扎结所需的花纹图案,随后从木框上取下来,放入染缸里着色,染后晾干,摘去所结的棉线,就有了别具一格的朦胧晕色经线,再在经线上织彩色的纬线。染料也都取自当地自然植物或矿物,比如野板栗树皮、苏木、黄姜茎、枫树皮、芒果壳、螺灰等,这样的棉花材料和自然染料,使得织出的锦布轻软、精细,“光辉若云”。A brief explanation is: Li ethnicity dyeing is to make warp from the sorted yarn, tightly tie it to the dyeing rack, and then tie the desired pattern on the warp with cyan or brown cotton thread, and then take it from the wooden frame. Next, put it in the dyeing vat for coloring, dry after dyeing, remove the knotted cotton thread, and have a unique hazy color warp thread, and then weave colored weft thread on the warp thread. Dyes are also derived from local natural plants or minerals, such as wild chestnut bark, hematoxylin, turmeric stems, maple bark, mango shells, snail ash, etc. Such cotton materials and natural dyes make the woven brocade soft and light , Fine, "brilliant as clouds".

(左图出自海南省东方市苗族绵娘符会三女士的黎锦吉兽图 ;右图左为海南省保亭苗族自治县加茂镇赛黎文化中心馆藏级别芦草织绵)

(In picture above, on the left is Li textile by Ms. Fu Huisan of Miao Nationality, Dongfang City, Hainan Province; On the right, is from Saili Cultural Center, Jiamao Town, Baoting Miao Autonomous County, Hainan Province.)


Traditional Li textile techniques: spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidering


设计风格:东南亚Style

Design Style: Southeast Asian Style

设计师:井一天(天猫原创设计师品牌RIMLESS主理)

Designer: Jing YiTian (Tmall's original designer brand Rimless)

秀款造价:7000元

Price: 7,000 yuan


平台集中採購被列入聯合國教科文組織急需保護的非物質文化遺產名錄的傳統面料和非遺技藝,邀請來自全球的新銳設計師,通過他們的設計理念和品牌風格進而將非遺技藝與現代時尚進行全新的演繹融合,最終使得“非遺”走向生活、為年輕市場所瞭解和接受,最終通過商業運作,回向給非遺和傳承人。The platform for centralized procurement of traditional fabrics and intangible cultural heritage techniques in urgent need of protection are listed in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Emerging designers from all over the world are invited to integrate intangible cultural heritage skills with modern fashion through their design concepts and brand styles, so that the intangible cultural heritage can be brought to life, understood and accepted by the youth market, and finally returned to the intangible cultural heritage and inheritors through commercial operations.


海絢東方最終輸出在產業和生活商業上,強調市場導向,並與現有的時尚行業差异性共同發展,並向行業開放平臺,促進多元合作和共同價值創造。Oriental Ocean's final output in the industry and life business, emphasis on the market orientation, and the existing fashion industry differences and common development, and open the platform to the industry, promote diversified cooperation and common value creation.


如海之絢,東啟萬方。非遺時尚項目Oriental Ocean(海絢東方),旨以設計之名,喚醒世界非遺之美,讓人類千年之文化華彩閃耀於世界時尚舞臺。Just as when the sun rises to reveal the beauty of the sea. Oriental Ocean, a fashion project of intangible cultural heritage, aims to awaken the beauty of the world's intangible cultural heritage in the name of design, and let the splendor of human culture for thousands of years shine on the world fashion stage.


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